* Around Ubud.
* The Adi Cottages on Monkey Forest Road.
* The Neka Gallery.
* Lamak for lunch - (Do look up when in the toilets).
* Morning at the market.
* Kecak dance at the temple.
* Preparations for the 60th anniversary of Indonesia's Declaration of Independence.
Ubud is growing on us and this is now our fifth or sixth trip.
At first we (really Her, but I went along for the ride) went for the market shopping which was a bit different from the southern areas and besides, She said, "it's only a bit further on from Sukawati" which is really a shoppers Mecca if you haven't heard of it before.
She still shops of course and I have found what seems to be an endless Mecca of my own in the galleries and art museums of Ubud.
In case you think we do everything on our own I have to say that we both enjoy the evening dances at the temple, particularly the Kecak that we now almost know and for which we try to find a seat behind our favourite 'monkey', an older guy who puts in all the little back muscle twitches that make his performance so much better than many of the younger dancers who have not developed these skills yet. (I hear that the Palace dances are just as good.)
Go to the Monkey Forest in Ubud at least once, but perhaps not on your first visit as the monkeys can be a bit frightening at times. Look for the Pura Dalem (the death temple) down in the dark green bowels of the river that runs through the forest. Some of the small carved stone statues along the path will make a mockery of most male visitors manhood!
Do visit some of the ancient archaeological sites that abound in this area which was once the heart of Bali's religious and royal life. Even if you are not too interested in the history and culture of Bali yet you will be taken aback by some of the scenery at these sites.
Food too is a specialty of Ubud with some restaurants, even some not within the 7* hotel complexes, frequently rated as the best in Bali.
AROUND UBUD.
Off the main 'highway', many of Ubud's streets are like quiet country lanes with sealed surfaces. This is part of a pleasant (mainly downhill) walk back into town from the Neka Gallery.
Those who know Ubud will not be surprised to find a flock of ducks working in a rice paddy almost hidden behind a row of trees lining a footpath.
A landmark in Ubud, Nuri's barbeque cafe just opposite the entrance to the Neka Gallery. Good for a cold whatever-you-need and a rack of pork chops.
Even in the markets of Ubud there are quiet corners.
Ubud would not be in Bali if there were not flowers to be admired.
Even the footpath drains in the main street of Ubud can be a gardeners delight. A quick peek down the iron-barred covers over the drains in Monkey Forrest road will reveal luxuriant ferns and even the odd orchid that Herself covets for our garden at home.
The ADI COTTAGES in Monkey Forest Road, Ubud, Bali.
Check-in desk (on the right) and the entrance to the Adi Cottages. Behind the shrubbery is the pool and the cottage blocks of two levels.
Being set back off the road there is little traffic noise to disturb you during either the day or the night.
Behind the check-in desk there is a little bale where you can make yourself a cup of tea or coffee (not Bali Kopi unfortunately, unless you bring your own) and enjoy the peace in a corner of the gardens overlooking the pool.
Sunset leaves a warm glow on the cottages traditional brickwork and the upper fronds of the coconut palms.
Behind the pool here is a typical block of four cottages, two up and two down. Noise attenuation must be good as we have never heard our neighbours at night.
This is the entrance to a cottage. The partly shielded veranda is a nice place to enjoy a B&D or a bottle of chilled Hattens Alexandria late in the afternoon after a hard day's shopping.
From the entrance, the king bed to the left, one dressing table to the right holds the TV (Indo programs only) with the fridge under and another dresser with handy shelves straight ahead next to the wash basin.
This photo is taken after we have put our own light bulbs in the two bedside and one overhead light. On our first shopping expedition each time we go to Bali now we get a 40 watt '3U' tube for the overhead and two 20 or 40 watt bedside filament globes for just this purpose. We take them with us when we move on to the next little hotel where we're sure we'll need them again.
The bathroom and toilet is to the left through the door and the built in wardrobe to the right through the door. The shower, unfortunately for us oldsters, is over the bath.
Another interior view from the side of the bed. We use the wicker chairs for drying and airing clothes rather than as chairs.
THE NEKA GALLERY.
The view from the open entry pavilion gives a foretaste of the delights to be found inside.
The buildings and the grounds are special and surprisingly well maintained.
My all-time favourite painting - with an interesting story about its genesis.
To be able to walk into the gallery, alone, and see the painting, unprotected in any way, is both a warm thrill and a chilling thrill. Please, if somebody wants to steal it they can hang it in my place anytime.
I really don't like Arie Smit's work, even though he might be one of the father's of the Bali post-war art revival, but this one is different.
'Vive la difference'. To actually see it both up close and at a distance is just great.
Throughout the gallery there are wall posters that give good information about the museum itself, individual paintings and the general background to Balinese art.
As you can see from my efforts here, I found the light difficult to handle. Flash lights are, understandably, banned but the prohibition on tripods is not easy to understand.
LAMAK RESTAURANT.
Upstairs staff; just as attractive when they're downstairs, and very friendly too.
Like girls the world over, fun is always on the cards.
The kitchen at Lamak is open for the inspection of the customers. a thing which gives us confidence in Bali.
MARKET MORNING.
Market mornings are busy because not only are there shop to tend and sales to make to pretty disinterested locals and preferably to eager, agog 'bules' ('tourists', or white faced money machines) but there are also prayers to murmur and offerings to make.
Such is the volume of deities to honour and demons to placate that the offerings continue past mid morning and the smoke of incense carrying the prayers up to the gods is thick and pungent.
A rare sight of open space at the market.
The back section of the markets which has more permanent shops and is often overlooked by tourists.
'What sort basket you want Mum?'
'What colour you want Mum?' First sale brings out the whole family and lots of smiles.
'How many you want Mum?'
The offerings on the ground are for the demons and those on the shrine are for the gods.
Many of the women change into their best outer garments before going to the shrine and change back into working dress afterwards. This is to please the gods with their best appearance.
After the offerings are made it doesn't matter too much what happens to them as the gods will already have taken the essence of the offering and what is left is simple the worldly shell.
KECAK DANCE AT THE UBUD TEMPLE.
The setting for the Kecak dance; the temple at Ubud
Our favourite 'old monkey', left of centre. Chakka, Chakka, Chakka. The chant, in unison from all, is hypnotic.
Enter the beautiful Princess Sita and her handmaiden. The ancient drama from the Indian Ramayana, is about to unfold.
Enter the evil King Rawana, about to grasp the beautiful Sita.
Hanuman (or Hanoman), the good and strong white monkey god leaps to the rescue of Sita.
Bronze bodies rejoicing as good triumphs over evil again.
The cast appearance is only brief as there is a Fire Dance and the Trance Dance to follow.
INDEPENDENCE DAY CELEBRATIONS. Indonesia's Independence was declared on August17, 1945, just after the end of World War II but the declaration started another war between the Dutch occupiers and the new 'Indonesians', formerly the Sumatrans, the Javanese, the Balinese, the Lomboks, the Florians, the Timorese and so on, right across the chain of islands known then as the East Indies or the Dutch East Indies.
Each year still brings a proud celebration of that independence that cost so many lives.
2005 was the 60th celebration and we were in Ubud to see the preparations and the practices.
The honour guard enters - - and the flag is raised.
All of these participants are school students coached by their teachers and army officers.
The martial band was not lacking in enthusiasm - - or volume. No speakers required!
A crowd soon gathers - - - - and the street sellers soon follow.
At the palace, dance practice is held.
It seems that only the dancers in the front row are coached, those behind learning by following the leaders.
Eventually the leaders become too old (at about 13 or 14 years) and the second row comes into the spotlight and their steps are given the final polish by the coaches.
We did not see any attention waver for the 10 or 15 minutes we stood there entranced.
Like more info about where to shop, eat, drink, stay in Ubud? What to see and where to go? Click on this link to the Ubud section of our Bali Forum Recommendations, but give it plenty of time to load as its in a very big file.
Like to go back and make another selection from our 2005 holiday pages?
What about some hints about travelling to Bali with KIDZ?
Or a currency converter with a graph of changes over recent days so you'll get some idea of whether you should change lots of cash when you get there (if the rate is falling) or hang off and only change what you really need day by day?
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