We had long planned to visit an Islamic orphanage on this trip, for all sorts of reasons that were probably a bit woolly.

I firmly believe (still) that the benefits of a western education would diminish the divide between Muslim and Christian values - sort of establishing a middle ground which would be broader than either of the ingredients if you like. I also think that a moderate Islamic education might benefit western children.

I am fearful of extremism in any form but particularly if it is extremism in the name of religion, either Christian or Muslim. Might the world be more peaceful now if there had been no crusades?

I also felt that contact between east and west - even without any educational involvement in a formal way - might convince all that neither camp produced people with two heads but that we were all about the same. I also thought that we could peacefully face any potential conflict in a positive way which might also prove to be positive.

I'm not so sure about some of these ideals now.

There had been a couple of posts on the Bali Travel Forum about the Panti Asuhan Al Islam, an orphanage attached to a Muslim school in Denpasar. That location seemed conveniently close to the Retirement Home that we visit so I made a few enquiries and found the address, the name of the Pimpinan ('Boss') and the numbers - all boys as girls are sent on to a separate institution in Java.

When we eventually found the place it appeared that the morning school had just finished and as we walked up the narrow lane we were met by groups of cheerful students, all in uniform of course, heading the other way. This first contact was very positive with many students (and some parents) greeting us. When we replied in English they tried to converse with us further, shaking hands and in a couple of cases holding our hands and walking back towards the orphanage with us.

Maybe the bulging bags we had with us were a bit of a draw also.   :-)) 

The whole scene was typical of that which occurs at so many other schools in Bali; warmth, friendliness, curiosity. The only difference was the sea of little white head scarves that the girls wore. When we arrived at the orphanage there was much confusion until eventually a young man came, perhaps to see what all of the noise was about. He was happy to show us through the orphanage and although we had been to worse (Negara in particular) Al Islam seemed dirty, disorganised (maybe un-organised would not be too strong), and very poor.

It was not what I thought a place supported by a strong religious community would or should be like.

Eventually we were invited into an fairly open area with a tiled floor that might have been like the  play areas we were used to in our local schools if it was carpeted. That we had gifts to give out was by now obvious to the throng that had gathered and She and I were divided into two camps by the press of undisciplined children.

The young man who was with us seemed a bit embarrassed but unable to establish any order.

Hoping to ease the pressure we both began to hand out the toiletry bags we had brought (the Chupa Chups had long since gone in a flurry)  but the crush of bodies continued and it was obvious that the bigger children were intent on getting as many bags as they could and simply pushing the smaller ones aside or reaching over them.

Suddenly the crush between us opened and another young man came, talking loudly to the children in Indonesian but obviously telling them to stop and asking what was going on. He was answered by the children and then turned his most welcome attention to us but instead of making us feel welcome he simply boomed out in his loudest voice, with wide, bulging eyes that would have been a director's delight on any theatrical stage, 'SHOES!  SHOES!  SHOES!  SHOES!' and pointing at our feet.

The first young man had evidently invited us into the prayer area where shoes were not allowed and now the voice of authority was demanding our penance. Deferentially we removed our shoes and submitted ourselves and our gifts to his inspection but I have to say that I was by now feeling at least uncomfortable and heading towards anger.

'Popeyes', as I now think of him, was evidently satisfied that he had demonstrated his authority and diminished us sufficiently in the eyes of the children to then stand in the background and ignore us until we had finished handing out the bags, balloons and small toys. As the children gradually dispersed I noticed that he had collected a couple of bags and some toys. Thinking that he had taken them from the children who had got more than one each I approached him so that he could return them. This was obviously not on his mind at all and his abrasive manner continued until we left, feeling confused.

I am still confused today, some months after the events.

I am now in conflict with my previous beliefs and the realities of a confronting situation which not only confused me at the time but still does. Add to this a still-warm feeling towards those happy children we first met on the path to the orphanage and the fear of what they might be learning and the result is that now I don't think I could ever go back there, or to any other Muslim orphanage.

I am ashamed that I feel this way but I contrast it with the welcome we always receive at one of our favourite shops in Tuban where, I discovered later the next week, all of the staff are Muslim.

Which, what and who is right?

Happy moments where kids are just kids.

The wide-eyed and wild-eyed little boy near the centre front has obviously attracted the attention of others.  Has he learnt this attitude from his tutors?

I prefer the boy on the left.

This little guy just wanted to hold hands. It was not until I showed him that I wanted to take his photo that he let go.

Two irresistible cuties.

I don't think they were orphans but rather students at the school who thought we might be more interesting than going home.

Now, would you like to go back to our home page index? -

Or back to the start of the 2005 story?

Or to some information about Balinese art?

Perhaps you'd like to read the story of our first trip, in 1979, as beginners in Bali?

Or something about the Bali Belly and other health issues for Bali travellers ?

.